Why the Best Engagement Rings Don’t Follow the Rules
There’s something quietly radical about choosing a ring that truly reflects who you are. Not just what you’ve been told to want, or what tradition has handed down.
At The Cut London, we’re seeing a shift - away from prescriptive proposals and towards design that starts with individuality. Whether you’re co-designing a ring with your partner, buying one for yourself, or commissioning a piece that breaks every rule, this is a moment to create with intention.
These are the new rules of engagement - defined not by convention or tradition, but by meaning, quality and a personal connection.
Modern engagement rings by Bear Brooksbank
1. Design together, not in secret
For many couples, engagement isn’t a surprise - it’s a collaboration. A shared process of discovery. Clients come to The Cut London wanting to build something together: a ring that holds both perspectives and truly represents who they are as a couple.
Whilst we still love a surprise proposal (especially when it is a genuine surprise) choosing a ring together can also feel like the height of romance...
Many of us want to be involved when it comes to designing the ring - not least because it's an exciting process - but also because times have changed...we're no longer waiting around to be asked - engagement is a planned life event that can be done together.
Working with a designer from the beginning mean you a design something that reflects not only your style, but your story. This approach doesn’t take away the romance, It just shifts the spotlight onto the part that matters most: thoughtfulness.
NOTE: We still admire the bravery of a surprise proposal though, particularly with a bespoke engagement ring.
Pear cut engagement ring by Bear Brooksbank
2. Style should reflect the wearer, not the tradition
A modern ring doesn’t follow a formula, it reflects the person wearing it. That might mean asymmetry, unusual claw details, mixed metals or a form or gemstone that feels intuitively theirs. For some, it’s a refined classic with unexpected details, for others, it’s a minimalist silhouette with a sculptural silhouette.
Design is never one-size-fits-all. We often work with clients designing for a gender-neutral partner, or choosing a ring that doesn’t read as “bridal”. That’s where the process becomes most powerful - when style becomes a language for who someone is, not what’s expected of them.
Alternative solitaire ring by Hannah Martin
3. Diamonds aren't for everyone.
Not everyone wants a diamond, and not every diamond is the same. Clients today are looking closely at how stones are sourced, what their origins mean, and how to balance beauty with responsibility. Lab-grown diamonds have opened up possibilities - especially for clients prioritising budget and size - but they’re not the only answer.
We remain neutral in our guidance, helping people understand the differences - visual, ethical, and 'mental' - between mined and lab-grown stones. The low price of lab-grown diamonds today mean that for some they don't feel 'special' or luxury enough...as a society we tend to view luxury as being 'expensive' and rare.
For many, coloured stones such as yellow sapphires, salt-and-pepper diamonds or warm-toned champagne diamonds offer a more individual feel, and represent a more authentic, natural option.
Yellow sapphire ring by Shimell & Madden
4. How it feels matters as much as how it looks
Comfort isn’t superficial. From the profile of the band to the thickness at the base, tiny proportions - often less than a millimetre - can define whether a ring feels elegant or awkward. This level of precision matters, especially for something that will be worn every day.
The Cut London works closely with each client to consider wearability from the start. Not only what looks beautiful on the hand, but what feels easy-to-wear.
Top tip: a 'low set' diamond means it won't be teetering precariously above the hand. This is also quite an outdated way of setting diamonds; high-rise stones can catch on clothing and get in the way of a busy, hands-on life - particularly at the gym or whilst swimming.
A claw-free bezel set diamond ring by Laura Vann - part of our 'Off Duty Diamonds' Edit
5. Not all love looks the same
We’ve helped single women commission rings for themselves, worked with siblings gifting a ring to their mother for her 60th birthday and designed for LGBTQ+ couples choosing rings side by side. Love is diverse, and the stories behind each ring deserve to be honoured with the same care and attention.
There’s power in creating something unexpected - whether that’s a non-engagement ring, a self-purchase, or an heirloom-in-the-making, the ring becomes less about status, and more about sentiment. The meaning becomes the luxury.
An alternative engagement ring by Hattie Rickards
The future is bespoke
The rings we make today will shape how future generations understand love and design. That’s the quiet legacy of bespoke jewellery - it becomes part of someone’s story, and eventually becomes part of your family story. Bespoke means you create something meaningful, lasting, and entirely individual.
We’re here to help you do just that.
At a glance
Can couples design their ring together?
Yes, and we encourage it. Co-creating a ring allows for shared meaning, and ensures the design reflects both people’s values.
Is a lab-grown diamond still considered ‘fine jewellery’?
This is a hot topic in the jewellery world - while not a mined stone, lab-grown diamonds share the same chemical properties. The choice is about values, not visuals. Think about whether the origin story of how a diamond is created is important to you, and if it matters to you where, and how, the diamond was formed.
What if I’m buying a ring for myself?
You’re in good company. Many of our clients commission rings to celebrate personal milestones. It’s a deeply empowering decision.
How do I choose the right design for my partner?
Start with how they live, what they love to wear, and what feels natural on their hand. We guide you through every step.
Remember, we offer a free engagement ring consultation to help you find the perfect ring...