This designer focus is on Shimell and Madden, a fine jewellery company that fuses the precision of geometry with the enduring beauty of precious materials.
Founded by Emma Madden and Luke Shimell, the London-based studio is renowned for its thoughtful craftsmanship and distinctive aesthetic rooted in mathematical principles, symmetry, and architectural form.
Every piece is meticulously handcrafted, blending traditional goldsmithing techniques with modern, conceptual design.
The result is jewellery that feels both timeless and intellectual - designs that speak to those who value structure and symbolism.
Kate caught up with Emma Madden in their London Showroom.
How long have you worked in the industry and how did you get into the jewellery business?
We started Shimell and Madden back in 2010, but we’d both been making jewellery for about five years before that, so we’ve each now got over 20 years of experience. Luke took a traditional path, training as a diamond mounter and working in Mayfair, where he made pieces for Dunhill, Asprey, Mikimoto and worked on lots of antique restorations. Emma studied Three Dimensional Design at university, which was more concept-driven and focused on contemporary jewellery design and production.
We come from quite different training backgrounds, but that’s what makes our partnership work so well. We’ve brought together our skills to create modern jewellery with a strong foundation in traditional techniques, always made with precision and care.
Where are you based?
We are based in Haggerston in East London, and have been in our current studio for the last 6 years. We've come a long way from first working together in 2006 in a little jewellers in South Devon.
How would you describe your style of jewellery?
Modern, architectural, geometric, that’s the design language we naturally share, and it comes from our love of mathematics. We’re both drawn to structure and pattern, and we often set rules around wirework and space to create that sense of balance and proportion in a piece or a collection.
Even though our work looks quite contemporary, there’s often a feeling of something ancient in it too. That wasn’t planned, we realised it came from geometric shapes being so universal. They've been used for thousands of years in different cultures, symbols, and art movements. That familiarity is something we love. People often tell us our work reminds them of something from the past, or something futuristic, which we think is pretty special.
What is your favourite gemstone to work with and why?
Sapphire is most definitely our favourite gemstone. It comes in almost every colour you can imagine, from soft, earthy tones to bold, vibrant shades, so there’s always something unique to work with. We’ve come across everything from rare sunset toned padparadschas to pale green sapphires and incredible bi-colour stones. There’s really something for every taste.
It’s also super durable, which makes it perfect for everyday wear, especially for engagement rings. Plus, there are no limits when it comes to how it can be cut, which means we can always find something a bit unexpected and personal. That’s what makes working with sapphires so exciting.
How do you pick the gemstones you work with?
We spend a great deal of time sourcing the perfect gemstones for our collections and clients. Many of the stones in our collection are ones we simply couldn’t part with after discovering them, either for their exceptional uniqueness or striking brilliance. These often become the starting point for commissions, or we work closely with clients to find gems that reflect their personal style and suit the designs they have in mind.
Over the years, we’ve built lasting relationships with some of the best and most trusted gemstone dealers, often small, family-run businesses. These relationships are essential in our industry. Trust and transparency are crucial, especially when it comes to ethical sourcing. We rely on our partners further down the supply chain to uphold the same values we do. This approach allows us to confidently trace the origin of most of our gemstones and, in some cases, provide full provenance for both coloured stones and diamonds.
If someone came to you looking for a bespoke ring but had no idea what they're looking for, how do you work with them?
We’d start by going over the basics and guiding them through each part of the process. First, we’d look at different metal options, explaining the benefits of each alloy, to see what they’re most drawn to. Then we’d explore gemstones, talking through their characteristics and how they might work with their chosen metal or how they might compliment each other if they’re thinking about using more than one stone.
Sometimes, though, it makes more sense to begin with the style instead of the materials. In those cases, we’ll show them our different design collections, which cover a spectrum of design philosophies, to help find where their heart lies. This will then lead into which materials are most suitable. It can be a really fun and intuitive process. We work with clients all over the world and are just as comfortable managing projects over email and video calls as we are welcoming people into the studio.
Once we’ve got a sense of their style and preferences, we’ll talk about budget so we can make sure we’re offering the best possible options within that range. From there, we’ll create a focused set of illustrations, usually around three to six, to bring the ideas to life and help narrow things down. We really enjoy this part of the process. Every client brings something different, and it’s always exciting to create something that’s not only unique to them but also pushes our own design language in new directions.
