Simply by changing up the predictable and well-worn ways of setting a diamond or gemstone in an engagement ring can make the entire design feel totally different. Detail is everything, and the most progressive and exciting jewellery designers are experimenting with new (and old) styles to create something far from the expected. The traditional prong or claw setting; where 4 or 6 tiny ‘claws’ of metal hold the gemstone in place is taking a back seat whilst these 5 fresh setting styles take the limelight.
7 stone oval scallop set diamond ring by Jessie Thomas
Scallop settings are one of our current favourites. Instead of a ‘rim’ of metal going all the way around the diamond to hold it in place, it is broken up allowing less more and therefore more light to reflect around the stone. Relying on absolute precision and a high level of craftsmanship, the scallop setting is having a moment due to London based designer Jessie Thomas, whose chic and coveted diamond rings are on the top of most newly engaged couples’ wishlists.
Round diamond drop set in 18k yellow gold by Single Stone.
A vintage style with echos of old-world Cartier, a drop set diamond ring features a slim space between the diamond and the ring itself, to give the appearance that the diamond has been ‘dropped’ in. Working best with larger scale European cut or brilliant cut round diamonds set in chunky bands, this bold style gives a fresh, androgynous take on the solitaire ring.
Bespoke channel set white diamond ring by Hattie Rickards
Channel set diamond rings involve a ‘channel’ of metal being dug out of the band, and the diamonds or gemstones are set next to each other in the channel, with no metal in between them. Smooth and sleek and extremely chic, channel set rings are the ultimate choice for minimalist lovers.
For the most high-end examples of the channel set ring, look to jeweller Hattie Rickards for some of the most incredible designs incorporating this fresh, modern style.
Bespoke emerald cut diamond gypsy set ring in yellow gold by Minka Jewels.
THE setting of 2021, the gypsy set gemstone or diamond ring is having a major moment. Sleek and smooth, the diamond is set directly into the band rather than on top of it, meaning the ring is devoid of pesky extraneous metal to catch on your clothes or hair. So, essentially, you can wear your ring all day and not even notice it.
Its recent resurgence in popularity is partly due to cult US designer Brent Neale, who resets no-longer-loved engagement rings in her weighty, wearable, wonderful way. Whereas gypsy settings were traditionally reserved for smaller or side stones, they are now most certainly the main feature, and the bigger the better. In the UK, Minka Jewels and Bear Brooksbank are the leading lights in this particular style, with many considering the chunky aesthetic the perfect modern engagement ring. Along with offering a sleek and stylish look, gypsy set rings also extremely secure, holding stones well and protecting softer gemstones like emeralds as well as reducing the chances of your stone falling out. Win win!
Button back heart shape emerald ring by Jessica McCormack
A vintage style revived by London jewellery designer Jessica McCormack, the button back setting completely encapsulates the diamond or gemstone, and the smooth, button shape backing underneath is ultra wearable and comfortable. Resembling a ‘smartie’ if you held the button back set diamond in your hand, the tactile, smooth surface of metal is satisfyingly simple.